it’s all about nature, and fun

by Bernard De Koven on July 28, 2011

Shea Lopez, a competitive surfer who has spent more than 11 years on the World Tour, writes:

So why do we love to surf so much? Because it is fun, pure, cleansing, challenging, frustrating, and totally different everyday, every season, even every wave.

Take the plight of Kelly Slater presently: He’s still the world title favorite for 2011, but an epic swell in Tavi, along with pitiful surf at J-Bay, just saw him choose perfection over obligation and a lifelong pursuit to win at all costs…

With surfing the lines have always been blurred between the best competitor and best freesurfer, but never the ones having the most fun. That honor goes to the lucky ones who are experiencing their very first ride on a wave. It’s the feeling we get as beginners on 1-foot waves that keeps us coming back for a lifetime in an attempt to duplicate those emotions, even as we progress to 20-foot Cloudbreak in hopes of getting our fix.

Thanks Kelly for reminding everyone out there it is about nature, and the bond we share with her every time we go in the water—especially on those once-in-a-lifetime swells that are worth missing just about anything for.

“Because it is fun, pure, cleansing, challenging, frustrating, and totally different everyday, every season, even every wave.” It’s an insight that is difficult to achieve when riding the small moments of holding a baby, locking eyes with someone you love, feeling a cool breeze on your naked skin on a hot day. But riding the “once-in-a-lifetime swells that are worth missing just about anything for” – it’s a truth that’s almost impossible to miss.


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